Short Drama

So yeah. I didn’t really like any of these photos. I am not proud of my hips and bottom, and it feels weird to type “bottom”, but this is about pants fitting and might as well start with my short drama.

For some reason, I am insistent on using the Prefontaine Short pattern. These are my third pair, after a muslin. While I am getting a better fit with each pair, I am not where I want to be with well fitting shorts. Here is an onslaught of mediocre photos to help discuss these fitting issues.

Point 1. Flat front, elastic back creates bags/folds under my belly. (I don’t mind how it looks here too bad, fresh from the dryer not worn very long.)


Point 2. Big booty creates copious fabric that hangs out from my bottom.


Point 3. Side lumpy curves plus belly creates sags and folds of waistline, dragging waistline down.


Point 4. Even wearing a shirt over the shorts well, it just makes it worse. This looks like I am wearing a weird pleated tennis skirt.


Point 5. Sway back is ok, front belly is not ok, folds unpleasant.


Stop taking photos already!


Frustrations: I just don’t think I can use this pattern to get a look I like. Flat front, elastic back feels fine to run around in, but just isn’t working visually for me. I am also frustrated with sizing. I know exactly how big I measure and by this patterns “guide” I should be an 18 but I am more like a 12 waist 16 hip after sewing it up. Why do even the indie designers build in so much give? No actually needs that many inches of extra room. *These are designed for running I understand, and I plan to use mine gardening and biking and chasing my toddler.

Fixes: My plan moving forward is to try another pattern that has a zipper (in my stash is McCall’s 6756 ) or maybe a pull on pant (The StyleArc Barb).  Maybe I will never like a pull on elastic waist for my style, but I do like how they feel. I dress for comfort and style. How can I integrate function into fashion? Is it a technical sewing skill I lack, the “right” pattern? How do you get TNT patterns? I still feel like I don’t any. Maybe it’s more ego+pride and my perspective needs work. Or as a friend suggested, maybe I should invest in a wardrobe that I love in ready to wear clothes so the pressure of sewing is removed.


Still seeking answers,

Love, MaLora


PS: Previous “fitting figures” is the beginning, this is the middle. Soon I will hopefully find an “end.”


10 thoughts on “Short Drama

  1. First, I have to say, you are so cute! You may not like the photos but I feel like I’m there and just hanging with my friend, who has an adorable personality. =)

    Try the McCall’s pattern – it has darts. I think understanding the fitting of the darts is going to be the biggest solution for any pants/shorts pattern you try in the future. Once you know how big or small to make those darts, you can do all kinds of dart manipulation.

    I don’t think you lack skills. I think you just lack a fitting buddy. It is so hard to pin and fit everything by yourself! (Even I still struggle to fit things in back perfectly because I can’t stand behind myself.) Your pictures are really helpful!

    Try pinching out some of that fullness in front and pinning out a horizontal (probably needs to be a football shape) section of fabric. Once you pin out what you don’t need, you can remove that excess from the paper pattern. I also think you can take out some of the back side seam to pull the rear in closer to your leg – try pinching a dart from the hem up only removing from the back piece (don’t change the front side seam line).

    It also helps to shop for a few rtw pieces that fit you well. Then you have things to compare and analyze fit. My favorite patterns are usually the ones I’ve altered to match some of my best fitting rtw.

    Don’t get frustrated and stay objective. You can totally do this!

    • Brooke you are the best! I am excited about darts and have no idea why I hadn’t thought of them! Well, probably because I am tackling pants for the first time and prefer to sew knits. Serge serge serge is all I do. 🙂 thank you! I can’t wait to learn more. And I only stabbed myself twice when fitting these, so I am learning!

  2. 1. you are beautiful and talented! 2. pants are the hardest thing to fit, even harder than full busted, short waist adjustments. 3. try a vogue fitting pant pattern. 4. maybe pin the sloper you used into a shape you prefer [put some pleats in the bottom back leg to take it in? pin out the excess in the front?] then take it apart, leaving the pins in and make a new sloper?. oh i am echoing the above comments. well there you go!

    • Smart minds think alike! I have a craftsy class on pants fitting I plan to take but I am being all independent and insisting I try on my own first. Which is probably folly as you can see. Thank you for your suggestions they will be put to use!

  3. I had the same under butt poof from this pattern too. I have been on the hunt for the elusive shorts tnt pattern as well. The Sewaholic Thurlow is as close to well-fitting as I’ve gotten so far and I’m sooooo close but not quite there.
    I have some of the same issues as you – swayback, large rear, pants hang out in front under the belly pouch. My normal waist is 29″ while my hips are 42-43″. It is exhausting to fit shorts!
    I fixed the poof under the shorts, but now I can barely sit because my thighs in front are pushing up on the shorts. I’m following along to see how you get yours to turn out, good luck!
    (If you want to see what I’ve done you can pop to my blog and just search “Thurlow” or hit that tag and it will bring up those 2 posts and the changes I made)

  4. Hiya! I’ve got no great advice… I started fitting a new pantspattern, making it lower in the waist, and BLAM! It just sags down all the time. I have no idea how to make my pants stay up if they aren’t sky high! (I”ll be watching to comments to see what other people recommend, tho!)

  5. Pants for real people by Pati Palmero and Marta Alto is fantastic! There is a digital version if you have an e-reader. Point fitting is a real pain! Even more so if you have a bottom.

  6. I hear ya’! I try so hard not to purchase patterns just because they look good on the model, but there have been a few that didn’t fit my body at all. (I never even blogged about them, I was too embarrassed to show them.) Don’t get discouraged about your body though, you just have to find a pattern that is more skillful at meeting your needs!

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