Carmine Shrug – pattern fitting

I am currently waiting on my Ziggi Jacket zipper to arrive in the mail, so I thought I would test out the Carmine Shrug. This Cake Pattern jacket looks so adorable in the drawings, and I eagerly snatched up the paper pattern and waited for it to arrive!

Carmine Shrug by Cake Patterns

Unfortunately, I struggled and am still struggling a great deal with the fit and pattern. I finally ignored the written instructions and just pieced it together. Once I made one, then two muslins, it still fit so unpleasantly I was surprised. So I sent the photograph below to my pal to see if I needed the gusset at all in the Shrug version. She said I was putting it together correctly. I got a nice tweet back from Steph (The Consulting Dressmaker and pattern designer) who said she is writing up some posts about the pattern soon. I am hoping they will shed some light on possible fittings complications.

I dare say the shrug doesn’t fit the way I expected. It has a unique construction to the garment, creating the shrug in three pieces (body, collar, gusset) and it is rather complicated to adjust the curve of the arm, bust and shoulder when it is just one piece of fabric. I have it in my head to take a sweater pattern I already own and copy the idea of the shrug, using a T-shirt front and back and sleeve, then redrawing the front with the collar. I will post the before and after pics if I can get this done to my liking.

carmine shrug traced pattern by cake patterns

Poor self taken photos to try to show the strange fit. This is a straight up size 40″ (my high bust is a 39″ and full bust 44″.)

carmine shrug by cake patterns, muslin test fitting

This picture above kinda of shows you how small the shrug is. I don’t think it covers my bra strap completely in back, and has some weird extra fabric around the shoulders, center back.

carmine shrug by cake patterns, muslin test fitting

This is the shrug with the sleeve pulled flat. You can see the curves of the pattern with the gusset wrinkled beneath the arm.

carmine shrug by cake patterns, muslin test fitting

Again, this is the second one I made. I feel like I need to change the shoulder arm area but am at a loss as to what to tuck in, since it is just one piece of fabric. Have you made a Carmine Shrug or Jacket? Share with me so we can do this together!



6 thoughts on “Carmine Shrug – pattern fitting

  1. You are the second person I’ve seen struggle with this, so that’s 2 for 2 in the fail department. Hopefully the designer has some input on fixing it, because it seems like it could be cute, but I’m beginning to wonder….Good luck!

  2. Hi! Yours fit strangely in a different way than mine, I think… but then again, it’s hard to tell! I ended up chopping apart my pink one last night and attaching it to a raglan top, which worked much better… though not great. I think it might be a case of the line drawing making us imagine something different than what Steph drafted it to be? Makes me wish that she’d posted at least a few pics of a real one to help us gauge what it is like! Oh well…

  3. I wonder why it fit like that? Maybe it needs a sleeve adjustment? I’ve only made one thing with a gusset – vintage dress. I made a bolero/shrug from some jersey fabric using a pattern from book Alabama Studio + Design. 5 pieces: front left & right, back, 2 sleeves. No gusset (not including binding on edges). Super easy pattern. I hand sewed mine but you cd just machine sew it. 😉

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